Il potere del numero 6
Il secondo sito in una ideale lista delle cose da vedere assolutamente a Kanazawa è il Kenroku-en. In Kanji è scritto così:
兼 六 園
Se hai studiato un po’ di giapponese e sei arrivato al capitolo dei numeri (che di solito è quello che fa chiudere il libro e gettare la spugna a causa dei classificatori), probabilmente avrai riconosciuto il secondo kanji, 六, ovvero il numero 6.
La sua pronuncia on è “roku” (ろく): già dalla sua forma, stabile e bilanciata nei tratti, puoi intuire che si tratta di un simbolo legato alla perfezione e all’equilibrio. Quest’ultima caratteristica è vera in molte culture, anche senza voler scomodare i kanji, ma nel caso dei giardini giapponesi, il numero 6 è particolarmente importante per via del libro Luòyáng míngyuán jì (“Cronache di famosi giardini di Luoyang“), in cui il poeta cinese Li Gefei definì i 6 attributi del paesaggio perfetto, ovvero spaziosità e intimità, artificio e antichità, corsi d’acqua e panorami.
Il nome Kenroku-en, quindi, contiene il kanji del numero 6 per sancire che questo giardino contiene tutti e 6 gli elementi citati: la traduzione semantica suona come “il giardino dei sei attributi” o anche “il giardino delle sei sublimità“.
Nella Top-3 dei giardini giapponesi
Per la disciplina con cui è stato realizzato e arricchito nel tempo, è considerato uno dei tre giardini più belli del Giappone insieme al Kairaku-en di Mito e al Kōraku-en di Okayama.
I primi daimyo del clan Maeda avviarono la costruzione del del giardino all’inizio del XVII secolo e da allora vi fu una continua evoluzione in cui ogni daimyo che si avvicendava apportava miglioramenti o aggiunte. Quest’opera continuò per i diversi periodi storici, fino alla metà del XIX secolo.
Oggi occupa una superficie di 114.436,64 mq e contiene all’incirca 8.750 alberi e 183 specie di piante.
Fu aperto al pubblico il 7 maggio 1874.
A spasso per il Kenroku-en
Passeggiare per questo parco sarà un’esperienza diversa per ogni periodo dell’anno, grazie ai colori che assume nel corso delle stagioni. Tra i punti di maggior interesse vi sono:
- la più antica fontana del Giappone operante con la pressione naturale dell’acqua;
- Kotoji-tōrō, una lanterna di pietra a due gambe alta più di due metri posta sul bordo del laghetto di Kasumigaike: per qualche ragione non tramandata è diventata uno dei simboli della città (con conseguenti file per farsi la foto ricordo) e si dice somigli ad un ponte su un koto, uno strumento a corde tipico della tradizione giapponese;
- Kaiseki-tō, la pagoda donata al clan Maeda nientemeno che da Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
- la casa da tè Yūgao-tei (“Padiglione del fiore di luna“), costruita nel 1774;
- Shigure-tei (“Padiglione della pioggia d’autunno“), fatta costruire dal quinto daimyo Maeda Tsunanori;
- Karasaki-matsu (“Pino di Karasaki“), un albero piantato dal tredicesimo daimyo Nariyasu con un seme proveniente da Karasaki, una località nei pressi del Lago Biwa;
- Gankō-bashi (“Ponte delle oche in volo“), un passaggio tra le rive di uno stagno formato da undici pietre disposte come uno stormo di oche in volo;
Per l’orientamento nel parco, ti verrà fornita una cartina all’ingresso. Se vuoi risparmiare qualche Yen, valuta il biglietto combinato con il vicino Castello. Non mancano bagni puliti e panchine su cui riposarsi e ammirare i diversi scenari e la fauna che li abita.
Come arrivare
Partendo dalla stazione di Kanazawa, raggiungere il Castle Park è molto semplice:
Se avessi voglia di fare una passeggiata a piedi, prendi il viale principale di fronte al grande torii Tsuzumi-mon e vai sempre dritto seguendo le indicazioni: in questo modo, attraversando il parco del castello, potresti raggiungere le rovine in circa mezz’ora.
Dico “potresti” perché a metà del cammino c’è l’Omicho Market e ogni buon proposito di tirare dritto andrà a farsi benedire!
Se preferissi andare col servizio pubblico, puoi affidarti al “caso”, nel senso che va bene un qualsiasi bus diretto verso la fermata “Kenrokuen Garden・Kanazawa Castle Park“. Le possibilità sono tantissime, quindi ti consiglio di aprire questo link e verificare quale linea faccia al caso tuo.
La fermata è comoda anche per la visita al Castello di Kanazawa.
La fontana della palude dorata
Ti ho raccontato all’inizio di questa pagina la leggenda della fontana che diede il nome alla città di Kanazawa, ovvero quella da cui il contadino Tōgorō vide emergere frammenti dorati. Se la leggenda fosse vera, la relativa fontana sarebbe per definizione la più antica della città poiché legata alla sua stessa fondazione.
La tradizione popolare vuole che la Fontana Sacra del Kenroku-en, ovvero il pozzo di Kinjo Reitaku in prossimità del tempio shintoista, sia proprio la fonte della leggenda e quindi l’elemento più antico del giardino stesso.
La devozione popolare è così forte e radicata, che molte persone vengono a spillare l’acqua per utilizzarla durante la tradizionale cerimonia del tè.
La pagoda dall’origine misteriosa
L’ultimo elemento di mistero ce lo regala la pagoda Kaiseki-tō, una struttura in pietra alta 4,1 metri che si sviluppa su 6 piani (torna il numero 6!!), posta su un’isoletta dello stagno Isago-ike, di fronte a una piacevole cascata.
Le fonti si dividono tra quelle che affermano che a farla costruire fu il terzo daimyo di Kaga, Maeda Toshitsune, vissuto tra il 1594 e il 1658, e quelle che la dipingono come ciò che resta di una pagoda a 13 piani che era originariamente nel giardino Gyokusen-in del castello di Kanazawa.
Una terza fonte, però, racconta che a portarla in Giappone dalla Corea fu Katō Kiyomasa che la donò a Toyotomi Hideyoshi, che a sua volta l’avrebbe regalata a Maeda Toshiie.
Se questa teoria fosse vera, il clan Maeda ne sarebbe venuta in possesso tra il 1592 e il 1598, ovvero gli anni dei tentativi di Hideyoshi di conquistare la Corea e la Cina.
E qui arriva il lavoro di fantasia: le 3 fonti potrebbero essere coerenti tra loro e, anziché escludersi a vicenda, potrebbero essere aspetti diversi della stessa storia, per cui è possibile che Maeda Toshiie abbia ricevuto da Hideyoshi una pagoda a 13 piani, posizionandola nel giardino Gyokusen-in, e che i daimyo successivi avrebbero spostato nella posizione attuale, riducendone i piani ai sei strati attuali.
…ma chi può dirlo?
La leggenda della statua odiata dai piccioni
All’interno del parco, durante la tua passeggiata, ti troverai al cospetto della statua del principe Yamato Takeru che troneggia al centro di una rotonda. C’è una leggenda legata a questa statua: si dice infatti che gli uccelli non si avvicinino al principe per rispetto!
In effetti, ho verificato personalmente che sia gli uccellini più innocui e spensierati, sia i corvi mannari grandi come droni, evitino di poggiarsi sulla regal figura.
In realtà, la leggenda è stata ampiamente spiegata da un professore dell’Università di Kanazawa con una ricerca intitolata “Studio chimico di una statua di bronzo odiata dai piccioni“.
Analizzando la superficie della statua, infatti, il professore ha scoperto che il bronzo conteneva arsenico e piombo in quantità altamente tossiche sgradite gli uccelli.
Grazie a questo “incidente di percorso” del tutto fortuito, nacque lo studio che portò alla realizzazione di statue “odiate” dai piccioni.
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